Elizabeth City, NC to Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center
We were excited to see the Dismal Swamp but the radar showed rain in the area, and we wanted to enjoy blue skies for our journey. We stayed on the dock, skipping the first lock time and set off at 11:00 AM instead, making it to the lock by 1:30 PM. The lock only has three openings each day so you want to time your travel well. The trip along the Pasquotank River was breathtaking; Cam likened it to being lost
in a forest. It was a short distance to the Welcome Center, where we docked facing south. We secured the back end of our boat to the dock, with our bow pointing into the trees, but couldn't pull the bow in any closer due to an underwater obstruction.
We shared the dock with Polly P, Anna Dee, and an orange cruise ship lifeboat. We had locked through into the swamp with the lifeboat. We've never seen anyone cruise in a boat like that. After a stroll along the boardwalk through the swamp, we explored the Welcome Center to learn more about the area. Upon our return, we noticed Knot Last One was rafted to Anna Dee. We all decided to
gather for docktails, and just as we were mixing our drinks, two southbound boats arrived and had to raft to Polly P and our boat, Sea Clef. While we were enjoying docktails, the young man from the lifeboat brought out his guitar and sound system, and provided some entertainment. He even took requests. He put out a bucket for fuel money, sharing that he hoped to finance his journey around the Loop with his music. His setup was quite basic—just a mattress on the floor and little else; not even a galley. A friend had to drive into the park to bring him food! We enjoyed his performance while having dinner; it made for a truly memorable night.
Dismal Swamp to Norfolk, VA @ Waterside Marina
Boats started leaving the dock around 7:30 AM, and we were the last to depart due to our position. We fell in nicely behind Polly P. The run was fantastic, filled with turtles, a deer, and lush greenery. It was odd to see a major highway running alongside the canal for a stretch while our route felt so isolated from civilization. We kept in touch with Anna Dee and Polly P about bumps and obstructions along the way; we
certainly felt a couple as we navigated through, but nothing serious. The conservation authorities use ropes to hold back some of the branches, while other branches left us just enough room to navigate around them. Along the way we saw an old cabin with a broken sign that looked like it said Superintendent House: Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. With a little research we learned that it is the only structure still standing on the land that was
owned by the Dismal Swamp Canal Company. It is prefabricated housing circa 19th-century. They found Roman Numerals on pieces of the building that were likely there to make it easier to put together. The building pieces would have floated down the canal on a barge. The cedar shingles on the roof were likely from trees in the swamp. At the end of the canal, we all tied off just before the bridge leading to the lock. We waited for a southbound boat to pass through the lock, and then the lock master came down to open the bridge for us. It was a surprisingly long process.
Once through, we led the way to Norfolk. After a few bends, we reached a railroad bridge that is usually open by default, but it was closed. After a train crossed, we requested an opening, only to be told that another train was coming. After the second train, the bridge still didn’t open, and when we hailed again, there was no response. Several other boaters hailed as well and the boats waiting behind us continued to grow in number. Finally, after two hours of holding our position in strong winds and current, and a third train, the bridge opened, and we were able to continue to our marina!
Jim and Elaine from JEMA greeted us when we arrived, and soon after, DeTour with Colin and Wendy, docked as well. We invited Colin and Wendy over for docktails, but unfortunately, Jim and Elaine couldn’t join us at the last minute due to an electrician's visit. We enjoyed a lovely long visit with Colin and Wendy before calling it a night.
The next morning, we rented a car and drove home to see family in London.
Norfolk continued
After returning from London, we received great help from one of the dock hands to get all of our belongings loaded onto the boat, including a set of new blinds. We also noticed that a couple of our lines had been re-secured, likely by the marina staff. We were quite impressed by Waterside Marina. Sunday was not good boating weather so we used the day to tidy up the boat. Cam installed all the new blinds, which was no easy task, transforming the cabin with a light blue hue.
In the afternoon, we took our bikes down and followed the Elizabeth River Trail west of Waterside. The trail led us to the USS Wisconsin, the Oriental Garden and Pagoda, and a charming cheese shop with outdoor seating. Interestingly, we learned that the USS Wisconsin (Right), affectionately nicknamed “WisKy,” had a dramatic history—it collided with the USS Eaton and lost a large chunk of its bow as
shown below. They used a section from the USS Kentucky, which was under construction, to make the repairs in just 48 hours! The "WisKy" nickname is derived from the "Wis" of the USS Wisconsin and the "Ky" on the USS Kentucky.
The little cheese shop that we passed earlier had caught our attention so we stopped on our way back, buying several varieties of cheese, including three sheep-based cheeses for Heather, which we enjoyed at one of their outdoor tables.
Later, we joined Ottyssey for docktails, and soon Mike from Bearfoot joined us as well. Just then, the Carnival Magic cruise ship was departing, executing an impressive 180° turn right in front of the Waterside Marina. Everyone gathered to watch the spectacle, and we briefly met Debbie and Steve from Gypsies Palace, who looked very familiar.
During dinner, as Heather retrieved our cherished glass wineglasses from the cupboard, it suddenly clicked for her—Debbie and Steve had been our group leaders for the online 2020 AGLCA Spring Rendezvous! One of their key tips back then had been to bring glassware on board, as we would soon tire of drinking from plastic. We were so glad that we had figured it out, so after our gourmet dinner with the last of our frozen lobster tails from Sneads Ferry, we went back to their boat. They graciously invited us aboard for a visit and shared valuable insights about the area. That was a great finish to our time in Norfolk.
We had completed the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and we were in Virginia, the twelfth state on our Loop. Click on the photos below to view the images in slideshow mode. You can also watch our videos on Elizabeth City to Norfolk and Farewell AICW! Hello Chesapeake. Coming up next, we enter the Chesapeake Bay.
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