New Baltimore to Scotia, NY
We had planned an early start, aiming to be underway from New Baltimore by 7:00 AM. But nature had other ideas—a thick, impenetrable fog rolled in, cloaking everything in a grey curtain. However, just as quickly as it arrived, the fog lifted, revealing a clear route ahead. By 7:30, we cast off, bidding farewell to Caribbean Dream and JEMA with hopes of meeting again sometime soon along our journey homeward.
Soon the city skyline of Albany, NY rose into view. We decided to make a quick stop for fuel just to top up our tanks, tempted by the promise of a good deal. Unfortunately, the dockhand couldn’t get the diesel pump to work. After giving it a good college try, he offered us a complimentary pump-out, which we gladly accepted.
Not long afterwards, we reached the Troy Federal Lock and Dam. Though technically not part of the Erie Canal, most consider it to be the first lock, especially since the Erie Canal has no Lock E1. Passing through this lock was momentous—it meant we were leaving behind the tides and the brackish or saltwater for the last time on our Great Loop. From here onward, it was all fresh water—no more saltwater cooling for our engines and generator, and no more washing the salt off our boat after every run!
The lock operator was efficient, lowering the lock chamber for us and directing us to tie up on the port side. Why he specified the port side wasn’t clear, but we didn’t mind—it’s our preferred side anyway. Heather looped the mid-ship line around a recessed post in the lock wall, and we easily rose 16 feet. It was our first lock since the Dismal Swamp in May and our first of 74 over the next three weeks.
After clearing the Troy Lock, you can choose to continue north and follow an optional route on the Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain, Montreal, Ottawa and Kingston, or you can follow the Erie Canal to the west and to Lake Ontario. We chose the westward route, leading us to the famous Waterford Flight of Five Locks (E2 to E6). Known as a "flight" because of their close spacing, these locks must be navigated in one continuous sequence, with no stopping in between.
At each lock of the flight, the operator radioed ahead to alert the next lock of our arrival and they were ready for our arrival in most cases. We were the only boat in each of these five locks. There were no posts or bollards in these locks. Instead, either cables or weighted lines hung from the walls, and they were stiff, filthy, and far from cooperative. Gloves became our best friends as we managed to semi-loop one line onto the forward-mid cleat and another onto the stern. Despite the line stiffness, the lock raised us so quickly that we relied more on hand control than the cleats. It was quite fast with little to no breaks between the locks for eating or drinking.
The most interesting part of the flight was between Locks E2 and E3 where we went over an old aqueduct. Apparently, there are 32 aqueducts on the Erie Canal but this is the only one that we saw. After the aqueduct, as we approached the E3 lock, we were distracted by a large barge that was docked on the starboard side just before the bridge. We weren't sure if we should wait in front of the barge or tuck in behind and wait well back of the lock. We chose to wait in front, and just after passing the barge, we reached a low bridge but we had forgotten to lower our antenna so it hit. It was a horrible crunching sound that we didn't recognize at first. At the same time, we were trying to secure the boat to the canal wall to help hold our position because the lock started spilling its contents out in a boiling rush of current, pushing us around! We managed okay but it was a struggle and from then on we waited well back of the locks.
After Lock E6, the last lock of the Flight of Five, we had about a ten mile break before our final lock of the day. It was quite a relief to have the time we needed to look after our food and bathroom needs. We passed under two guard gates after Lock E6. This type of gate
helps to isolate sections of the canal in case of emergency, such as a break in the canal wall, accident, or extreme high water. By the time we reached Lock E7, the Vischer Ferry Lock, we had company. Four jet skis and a pontoon boat joined us, adding some fun variety to an exhausting day full of locking. Seven locks and a cumulative climb of 213 feet later, we were done for the day—a solid workout that left us both feeling tired and triumphant.
From there, we cruised past Schenectady, NY and turned up a quiet side stream leading to Scotia. We tied up at Scotia Landing, a small, welcoming municipal dock offering overnight stays for a very affordable flat rate of $20, with an additional $10 for power and water, paid with an envelope in a drop box. With temperatures reaching 30°C, the amenities were worth every penny. Plugging in and hooking up to shore water felt like a small luxury after the labour-intensive day. But comfort was short-lived. Cam noticed our hot water heater was spilling into the bilge through the over-pressure valve. This was caused by excessive shore water pressure, which we knew because it happened to us once before. Cam had purchased a pressure release valve after the first time it happened, just in case, so he installed it, solving the problem in minutes. But we still ended up with no hot water—cold showers for the night!
After dinner, we walked around the town, following the sounds of a community orchestra which was playing at the local amphitheatre. We pulled up a seat on the tiered grass seating, and enjoyed the music and the people of the town. We arrived late so we only caught a few pieces, but it felt like the perfect way to wind down. At the end of the concert, the winds began to stir, carrying the threat of an approaching storm, but we squeezed in a final evening stroll through the charming town before retreating to the safety of the boat. We battened down the hatches and checked all our lines. The thunder rumbled ominously, with lightning and strong winds, but the rain never came.
As we settled in for the night, we pondered the significance of the day—no more saltwater, and seven locks conquered on the Erie Canal. It was a good day and we felt accomplished.
Scotia, NY to St Johnsville, NY
We pulled away from the dock beneath sombre grey skies, keeping a close eye on the weather. With optional stops planned along the way, we hoped to stay flexible, but still make headway. The spacing between the locks was much more forgiving than the previous day, and the lock operators coordinated ahead for us. Out of the eight locks we passed through, three were already open and waiting—a very welcome convenience.
Between Locks E12 and E13, we saw a McDonald's on the port shore and it was calling to us. We eyed the shoreline wondering if one of us could take the dinghy in to buy some lunch but there was simply nowhere to tie up. It was a lost revenue opportunity for them. By the time we reached Lock E13, the storm we’d been trying to outrun was closing in fast. The dark skies were chasing us, so we pushed our pace, aiming for the free wall just before Lock E14, the Canajoharie Lock. As we approached, the lock operator hailed us, letting us know the lock was ready and waiting. When we explained our plan to tie up
before the lock, he advised us to lock through and tie up on the far side of E14. Trusting his local experience, we decided to press forward and lock through. The atmosphere was electric—ominous clouds gathered overhead, thunder rumbled, and the first drops of rain began to fall as we rose steadily in the lock. The tension was palpable, but we exited swiftly, spun the boat, and secured ourselves to the wall on the other side of the lock. With two bollards and two rings holding us firm, we made it inside just as the storm hit.
Cam jumped on the opportunity to run the generator, pleased to know that it was cooling with fresh water and flushing out the salt water. The boat, sweltering from the heat and sealed shut against the rain, quickly cooled down with the air conditioning humming—luxury! For an hour, we waited out the storm, listening to the steady drumming of rain on the deck.
Once the skies cleared, we cast off again, hurrying through Lock E15 and onward to the St. Johnsville Municipal Dock. It was not the destination we'd hoped for, but the weather had other plans for us. Rain came and went along the way, and we were welcomed at the dock by Avalon from Dream Catcher, who kindly helped catch our lines. We got out for a short walk before dinner. It didn’t take long to realize there wasn’t much to see or do in this small town, but it was a pleasant stroll nonetheless.
Before retiring for the night, we met another Canadian Looper boat named Northern Escape. We had seen this boat on Nebo travelling behind us for weeks and had looked forward to meeting them. We especially like connecting with other Canadian Loopers, however, the wet weather kept our visit too brief.
Today’s progress included eight locks and a total rise of 91 feet, bringing our two-day total to an impressive 304 feet. The day wasn’t without its challenges—Heather spent much of the time at the locks fending off logs with the boat hook. At one point, she accidentally snagged a large stick in the hook and struggled to shake it free! Lock E13 provided an extra dose of excitement when a strong current at the entrance spun our stern sharply to starboard. Cam handled it like a pro, expertly navigating through the swirling water while dodging logs. It was a demanding but rewarding day on the water.
St Johnsville to Little Falls, NY
The sky was heavy with overcast clouds, and a moody grey sky hung low above us. After a simple breakfast, we cast off around 8 AM, setting our sights on Little Falls, NY—a short run with just two locks standing between us and what promised to be a more interesting town. The first lock was E16, the St. Johnsville Lock, with a modest but steady 20-foot lift. Smooth and uneventful, it was a mere warm-up for Lock E17, the Little Falls Lock, a towering 40-foot lift that dwarfs all other locks on the Erie Canal. Unlike the standard swing or mitre gates, its entrance is a massive lift gate—a huge two-foot-thick metal gate suspended above the water. As we slowly slid under the gate, which had 20 feet of clearance, water dripped steadily from the gate to our boat and on Heather’s head.
Inside, we tied up behind a trawler and it was an exceptionally tight fit. As the gates began to close, our boat started to shift forward until our bow was over their dinghy. We struggled to hold Sea Clef back and Cam had to start the engines and put the boat into reverse as the lines were not enough. Then Heather was beside a steel ladder which gave her something solid to grip until we started to slide back naturally in the lock. When we got closer to the top, the water started pushing us forward again, but when we reached the ladder again, Heather held onto that with determination, holding position until we reached the top. Oddly, the whole time the trawler was seemingly unaffected by the turbulence that had us dancing within the lock’s confines. Their boat was much heavier than ours and we were likely moving more due to our position relative to where the water flowed into the lock. Both boats were secured on the south wall of the lock and we could see the lines on the north wall pulling out hard from the wall as evidence of the strong currents working against us.
When the gates opened we emerged into a surreal landscape—like floating in a massive bathtub, with the town sprawled out below us. On one side, a blasted rock wall towered over the canal; on the other, a solid concrete barrier confined the waterway. We rose 60 feet today for an overall lift of 364 feet. Little Falls Marina appeared quickly, and we happily tied up so we could explore the town.
The Harbor Master was welcoming and gave us a tour of the facilities, which were clean, well-maintained, and included a clubhouse with a fascinating history display in an old wooden workshop. Locals had curated the exhibit, offering a glimpse into the area’s rich heritage. The boating community added to the day’s enjoyment. The crew of Misty Maiden, a 58-foot Fleming, had bought fresh donuts from a local bakery and generously left some in the clubhouse to share. Cam couldn’t resist either the donuts or the Fleming and later went over to thank Jim and Lisa on Misty Maiden. We also caught up with Paul and April from Parnassia, whom we’d previously met in Kingston, NY.
After settling in, we took our bikes out to explore. The path leading to the lock had been hewn out of the rock. It was like driving through a rock fortress complete with archways. From there, we rode into town to find the bakery—for more donuts—and then the bank and grocery store. We went back to the boat to charge the bikes and waited out a brief rain shower before
heading out again. The views from the bridge were amazing and give you a pretty good idea why there were locks built around this section of the canal! We were looking forward to exploring Canal Place, but it turned out that most places were closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. We enjoyed browsing an antique shop that was filled with fascinating items, many that held nostalgia for us.
The evening ended with docktails along with the crews of Misty Maiden and Parnassia. Dennis, the captain of Stir Crazy, joined us, sharing stories of his solo journey south which he documented on YouTube. You can see a glimpse of Sea Clef on his episode #20. As the lively visit drew to a close, plans were made to depart early the next morning with Misty Maiden, ready for another day full of locks on the Erie Canal.
Unbeknownst to us at the time, Misty Maiden would become our new buddy boat who would travel with us until the end of our Great Loop adventure.
Click on the photos below to view the images in slideshow mode. You can also watch our videos on the area including Taking on the Flight of Five on the Erie Canal and 10 More Locks on the Erie Canal. Next up, we reach the peak of the Erie Canal and start going down to Lake Ontario.
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