Annapolis, MD to Chesapeak City, MD @ Chesapeake Inn, Restaurant & Marina
We arrived at the fuel dock right before it opened at 8:00 AM for a quick pump-out before heading out. As we approached the Chesapeake Channel Bridge right outside the marina, a Coast Guard boat suddenly cut in front of us, holding up a red STOP sign. They warned us that the bridge was closed due to swimmers in the water for the Great Chesapeake Bay Swim. According to the radio, the swim was supposed to run from 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM, but the Coast Guard told us the delay would be one to two hours to clear.
We anchored on the west side of the channel, where the water was shallower, and waited, sipping our tea and coffee while relaxing on the back deck and watching the activities. We were treated to quite a show as a power boat, unaware of the closure and radio calls from the Coast Guard, was racing toward the bridge. To stop them, a helicopter swooped down low to get their attention as a Coast Guard boat was trying to catch up to them! It didn't seem too long before we received word that we could pass the bridge west of a yellow marker, so we were lucky to have lost only a little over an hour of travel time. The boat and radio traffic remained busy until we were well north of the bridge.
We finally arrived in Chesapeake City around 2:30 PM, after a couple of hours running at speed in the northern Chesapeake. The marina was bustling with a weekend party-like atmosphere. We were even offered Tiki Bar service right at our boat, but we declined. After getting settled, we squeezed through the crowds in the marina restaurant, and walked through town. We explored the quaint gift
shops, all of which were housed in heritage buildings dating back to the early 1800s. We walked into a couple of the shops just to see the historic architecture. We stopped by a jewellery store in the Old Town Hall, which even had a an enormous old safe. We picked up a table runner-style hot pad featuring three compass roses as a souvenir.
For dinner, we discovered a crab restaurant called the Tap House. Cam ordered a three crab dinner, while Heather had shrimp and fries. We both enjoyed Maryland crab soup, but the timing of the meal wasn’t great—Heather’s food arrived first, so she finished eating before Cam’s meal even came. There was a table of about twenty people beside us that could have contributed to the delay.
Back at the marina, most of the boats on our dock had already left, and we were a little concerned by the amount of drinking that had been going on, especially with people heading back out onto the water. Hopefully, the captains were staying sober!
We wrapped up the evening with a drink and a chat with Rachel and our dog Frodo online before calling it a night.
Chesapeake City, MD to Delaware City, Delaware Our 14th State!
Today we would navigate the historic Chesapeake & Delaware Canal (C&D Canal), a key waterway that cuts through the narrow strip of land separating the Chesapeake Bay from Delaware Bay. Originally a creek, the canal was dug between 1824 and 1829 by over 2,600 men using picks and shovels, earning just 75 cents a day plus meals. At 14 miles long, 450 feet wide, and 35 feet deep, the canal was designed to accommodate oceangoing vessels, dramatically shortening the travel distance between Baltimore and Philadelphia by more than 300 miles.
We departed early to ensure we reached Delaware City Marina before the heavy rains forecasted for late morning. The journey was relatively short—only 14.5 nautical miles—and the waters of the C&D Canal were calm and mostly debris-free. For most of the trip, we were the only boat on the canal, enjoying the peaceful dawn until we neared the final bridge.
When we hailed the Delaware City Marina, the dock hands gave us very explicit instructions to help us with a carefully choreographed docking manoeuvre. They caught our lines on the starboard side as we pulled alongside, then Heather reached the port bow line under the anchor and handed it to them, in exchange for the starboard line. They shoved out our stern and used the current to spin the boat 180 degrees with only a little bow thrusting from Cam. The dock hands then guided us back into position, allowing the tide to gently push us toward the dock, where they secured our lines. It was a smooth, almost effortless process.
We registered at the marina office and checked out the small marina store, which offered a mix of marine supplies and local souvenirs. We were immediately drawn to a striking metal fish sculpture painted in shades of blue and aqua, which matched the linens in our forward cabin perfectly. Tim, the marina owner, was kind enough to let us take the sculpture to our boat to see how it looked before making the purchase. Later he mentioned that his wife had just picked it up recently, and she was a little sad to see it go so soon.
We had intended to explore Delaware City but ended up spending more time than planned taking care of boat tasks. Shortly after we ventured out, the rain started to fall, initially light but quickly turning heavy, accompanied by thunder. We managed to make it back to the boat before the downpour intensified, but it didn’t let up the entire afternoon.
At 4:00 PM, we attended a weather briefing hosted by Tim. The meeting, held daily for boaters heading out on Delaware Bay, provided detailed information on the current weather conditions, tides, and navigational charts. Tim’s experience in interpreting the forecasts on the Delaware Bay gave us confidence for the journey ahead. He explained how critical it was to time our departure right to take advantage of the tides and avoid wasting fuel fighting strong currents. He also pointed out safe places to anchor if the seas got rough. After the talk, we returned to Caribbean Dream, a fellow Loop boat, to have drinks with Ken and Kathie, who we had met during the briefing. We quickly hit it off and decided to travel together the next day.
When we returned to our boat, we discovered that our blue recycling bin was filled to the brim with rainwater—something that had never happened before. We had seen the flash flood warning on our phones, and sure enough, the water levels were noticeably high, spilling onto the shore.
Delaware Bay, DE to Cape May, New Jersey Our 15th State!
Tim said he would be on the dock at our predetermined departure time and, true to his word, he and another dock hand were there to help us off. We left at 9:00 AM, at slack tide as planned. As we picked up speed, we could feel the outgoing tide pushing us along, adding about a knot of speed to our progress. The waters of Delaware Bay were surprisingly calm, with only a few rough patches when we had to change our course angle. The ride was smooth for the most part, and we made good time. Caribbean Dream was behind us and we could see another boat near the North shore, plus several sailboats. We only passed two huge cargo ships which we gave a wide berth. It’s nice when careful planning leads to an uneventful journey.
As we neared the inlet to Cape May, we noticed strange, round objects floating in the water. They looked like coconuts, but since we were in New Jersey, far from any palm trees, we eventually realized they were the shells of Horseshoe crabs. The area was teeming with them. It turns out that Horseshoe crabs spawn in Delaware Bay, and their young spend their first two years there. They moult 17 times over the course of their lives, doing so in groups, which explained the hundreds of shells we saw floating.
After docking at Canyon Club Marina, we realized we were somewhat isolated from the other Loopers, who were staying at a different marina, but we did enjoy the large swimming pool. We took the shuttle into town, thinking we’d be closer to our Looper friends, but the route ended up going past all the other marinas. Still, we enjoyed exploring the downtown area and had a snack at Washington Street Mall before returning to the boat. The weather had turned cool and windy, so we decided to hunker down for the night and made a simple dinner of Chilean Sea Bass.
The following day, we took the Historic Cape May Trolley Tour, which was fantastic. The tour gave us a deep dive into the history of the town and its beautifully preserved Victorian homes. We must have photographed every house in town! Afterwards, we met up with Ken and Kathie from Caribbean Dream for lunch at Cape May Fish Market, where we compared weather forecasts and discussed the next
leg of our journey on the open Atlantic Ocean! We were still undecided whether to head to Atlantic City or continue all the way to New York, but we would figure that out on the journey. We ate a lot of food, exchanged stories and laughs, and then caught the shuttle back to our boat. We planned to get an early night, for an early departure the next day. This is the life of a Looper during these intense travel areas where the journey is long and the weather is critical.
Cape May, NJ to Atlantic City, NJ
The next morning, we were up again at 5:30 AM checking the weather. By 6:00 AM we were discussing our plans with Ken and Kathie and we finally had four thumbs up to go. The swell was noticeable but gentle, and we made good time. However, Heather, who was below deck in the galley when we went through the inlet out to the Atlantic, instantly started feeling seasick. Inlets are always the roughest part of the journey, and being below deck during a rough passage is a recipe for seasickness. Heather wasn’t feeling well for the entire run, which made the experience less than enjoyable. It was hard to turn in at Atlantic City because it felt like the conditions were good, but there was a prediction for winds to increase as we went north and it was a kind choice for Heather. We made the safe call, but in retrospect, we could have gone.
Upon reaching Atlantic City, we tried to get into Farley’s Marina, a popular stop for Loopers, but they were full due to an event. Instead, we secured a spot at Kammerman’s Marina. At $4.00 per foot, we expected better docks and facilities. Our boat was tied to a short floating dock at the port stern and a fixed wall at the starboard. The docks were in disrepair, with loose and missing boards, and the railing was just a flimsy 2x3 board nailed into place. The rising tide brought water dangerously close to the neighbouring townhouses.
While Cam washed the boat, Heather and Kathie went for a long walk to the boardwalk, enjoying the sights until they could see the iconic Ferris wheel. Later, we all met at the marina bar for drinks and another weather discussion. We had originally considered waiting until Sunday to depart, but the forecast for Friday and Saturday looked favourable, even with some rain predicted. We agreed to prepare for an early departure at 6:00 AM the next day, hoping the weather would cooperate.
Exhausted from the day’s events, we packed it in early, eager for the next leg of the journey to New York, and anxious to get away from our less than thrilling accommodations in Atlantic City. Click on the photos below to view the images in slideshow mode. You can also watch our videos on the area including Coast Guard Chases Boat Away from Bridge, Crossing the Delaware Bay, and Exciting News on Our Way to New York City.
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