Norfolk, VA to Dyer Creek
We started our day at the pump out dock just before opening and the dock hand showed up right away. While we were being pumped out, we said farewell to Mark and Lorie from Ottyssey. We would travel with them for a short time that morning, but we wouldn't see them again on our Loop. These bittersweet farewells were becoming more frequent, but we promised to keep in touch and try to
connect when they reached our home cruising grounds in the North Channel later that summer. We travelled at only 5 knots for a while because the boat traffic was crazy! Norfolk is the largest naval base in the world, and we probably passed anywhere from 25 to 40 Navy vessels! A few were underway, including a warship that we heard on the VHF, while most were docked. In addition to the Navy vessels, there were cargo ships, tugs, tows, and plenty of pleasure crafts. Once we officially entered the Chesapeake, the conditions were perfect!
After a long day on the water, we arrived at the dock around 3:30 PM. This was no ordinary dock; it belonged to the AGLCA Harbor Host for Deltaville. Dave and Sonia from Crew Lounge had introduced us via text, and Bryan kindly invited us to tie up at his personal dock on Dyer Creek for free. He even offered us power and water, but we didn’t need either. Cam joined Bryan on a trip to Ace Hardware, and later we gathered with Bryan and Ellen on their deck for drinks and lots of appetizers, which lasted nearly three hours. It was a fantastic visit, and they were excellent hosts. The creek was absolutely still and beautiful, providing us with a perfect, peaceful night.
Dyer Creek to St Michaels, Maryland Our 13th State!
This morning, we decided the conditions on the Chesapeake were good enough for us to go all the way to St. Michaels and anchor for a couple of days. It was flat calm in Dyer Creek, and we initially thought we were seeing fog on the water. However, it turned out to be smoke! By the time we reached the Chesapeake, there was at least a one-foot chop. With the waves coming at us from the beam, it was a bit uncomfortable. We crossed the Potomac River, a popular side trip on the Loop that leads all the way to Washington, D.C. We expected more waves from the Potomac due to the fetch, but surprisingly, the waves were settling as we crossed the mouth. We sped up and maintained our speed for over three hours to avoid arriving too late. We anchored in San Domingo Creek, which was well sheltered and calm, allowing us to enjoy a great night.
We were starting to receive air quality warnings that said "Unhealthy" and learned that the smoke was due to the wildfires in Canada. It was hard to believe that the smoke could be from so far away! Heather pulled up her MyRadar app and turned on the forest fire option to capture this image. The blue dot in Maryland shows our location. New York was in the headlines as having the worst air quality on record and the sky was red with smoke. The situation worsened on Wednesday, aggravating Heather's lungs and eyes, while Cam felt it was giving him a headache. This certainly detracted from the beauty of our location. We were worried about all the people that were closer to the smoke; especially those who had to be outside.
On Wednesday afternoon, we took the dinghy over to the dinghy dock and walked into the town of St Michaels, Maryland. The area was full of shops and had architecture reminiscent of Georgetown. We explored several heritage buildings and followed a heritage walk with signage detailing their history. After checking out three restaurants, we returned to the Crab Claw for lunch. Cam had a crab cake sandwich, while Heather enjoyed a crab salad. Then Cam noticed others eating buckets of small crabs and asked the waitress about it. Normally, they sell Maryland Blue Crabs by the dozen, but she sold us each one and even stayed at our table to coach us on how to eat them. It was a tasty Maryland experience! Afterwards, we grabbed ice cream and hit the shops again. We stopped by a local brewery called
Eastern Shore Brewing, where they have their own beers on tap and also sell it separately in cans. Cam tried a Blue Heron Coffee Milk Stout which was like a beer blended with coffee, and he bought a six-pack to go. Heather opted for a Back Creek Blonde. A couple from a sailboat came in, and we chatted with them while enjoying our beers. We finally walked back to the dinghy and headed back to the boat, stopping to see the Osprey nest along the way.
Our purchases today included some risotto, similar to what we purchased previously in St Augustine, a package of gluten free chocolate cookies, a new coffee mug for Cam, and a wooden sign that says “Life’s Better On The Water”....except when it's smoky!
St Michaels to Annapolis, MD
This morning dawned hazy, still shrouded in smoke that reduced visibility to about a mile or less. We navigated carefully, weaving around fishing boats that seemed to turn randomly, cutting across our path, alongside the ever-present crab pots. We had heard of an opportunity to get cheap fuel, so after radioing the Knapp Narrows Bridge, we entered the channel at Tilghman Island. The current was strong as we made our way in, but it must have been slack tide on the way out, making our exit much smoother. Anchored Souls was at the fuel dock so we tied up on the side of the large well. After exchanging greetings and Looper boat cards with Anchored Souls, we faced the challenge of fuelling up without dock hands to assist. We normally pull up alongside a long dock for fuelling, but here we needed to stern in, which added a bit of excitement to the task. With only one post and a line hanging from it, Cam backed up skilfully while Heather used the boat hook to snag the short line so she could secure our midship starboard line to the post. Once secured, Cam quickly grabbed another line from the port stern and nimbly climbed over the dinghy to shore. It was our first experience fuelling up this way, and despite the challenges, we managed just fine.
As we continued on our journey, the heavy smoke lingered, casting an eerie veil over the horizon. We kept our focus on the instruments, spotting AIS signatures for three large cargo ships anchored nearby. Suddenly, a boat obscured by smoke hailed us. We had not seen their AIS signal on our instruments yet, but they had seen ours. We arranged to pass them starboard to starboard, trusting our instruments to give them a wide berth. We were thankful for their advance warning, for when they emerged through the smoke, we saw how big they were and we wanted to maintain a safe distance from their wake.
The waves remained gentle, no more than 1.5 feet, making for a pleasant run toward Annapolis. By contrast, our friends on Ottyssey were further south on the Chesapeake and they were caught in a sudden storm that came out of no where. We noted their position and checked in with them until the storm subsided. We felt very fortunate that the storm did not affect us but we were worried about our friends.
Upon arriving at the Annapolis Yacht Basin, Cam set to work washing down the boat's exterior and picking up a new battery for the dinghy. We then treated ourselves to dinner at the renowned Boatyard Bar & Grill. We couldn’t resist ordering the World's Best Crab Cake Dinner, and it truly lived up to its name—those crab cakes were the best we’d ever tasted! Cam also indulged in their rich Maryland-style crab soup.
On Friday, we ventured to the U.S. Naval Academy for a much-anticipated tour. Cam had to hurry back to the boat to retrieve our passports, a necessary step for Canadians to get through security. Once inside, we enjoyed a quick film before embarking on a captivating 1.5-hour tour led by our guide, Bob, a proud graduate from 1964. His wealth of knowledge made the experience unforgettable. We learned that first-year students, known as Plebes,
begin their training in the summer and must balance academic studies with two hours of physical activity every day. Graduation in four years is a non-negotiable requirement. Bob also shared intriguing anecdotes about their rivals at West Point, which we would soon encounter on our travels up the Hudson River. The architecture and monuments were breathtaking, and the history was intriguing. We went to see the burial site of John Paul Jones. He was so important to the United States Navy that they went to incredible efforts to bring his remains to the U.S. Naval Academy in 1906, 114 years after his death in 1792. His remains had been in an unmarked grave in France and it was felt that an American hero of his stature should not be left in an unmarked grave. Considerable efforts were made to locate the casket and positively identify the remains as those of John Paul Jones.
In the afternoon, we decided to have lunch at Stevens—how could we resist, given that it shares our last name? As an added bonus, the BBQ fare was pretty good and very filling. Afterwards, we strolled through the town, pausing to admire the poignant Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Memorial, honouring the legacy of the author of Roots. Next, we meandered through the charming local shops, soaking in the unique finds and vibrant atmosphere. On our way back, we encountered Tony and Arien, and their dog, Jacks, from Island Wanderer, who graciously invited us aboard for a drink. Tony and Arien's home marina is in Canoe Cove, BC, which is where our 42' Canoe Cove, Sea Clef was built.
As the sun began to set, we returned to our boat for a simple yet satisfying snack of cheese and crackers on the bow. We were just in time to catch the cannon blast and the Last Post as the Yacht Club lowered their flag, adding a sense of ceremony and nostalgia to our evening.
On Saturday, we decided to explore the charming shops again. Over the two days, our finds included a ceramic spoon rest adorned with a crab, two elegant glass tumblers featuring pewter crabs, some cute crab-themed socks for Heather, a selection of spices, and two stunning mango wood dishes inlaid with sea foam blue painted ceramic fish by local artist, Kim Hovell. After our shopping spree, we tackled the less glamorous but necessary tasks of grocery shopping and tidying up the boat.
For dinner, we invited Tony and Arien to join us at the Boatyard Bar & Grill and, in turn, they invited Jeff and Lori from Water Witch. Having spent several days with Jeff and Lori in Carabelle before our Gulf crossing, we were excited to reconnect. Upon arrival at the restaurant, we were greeted with a two-hour wait list. We all pulled out our phones to study the options and decided to switch gears and head to Ruth's Chris Steak House instead. Though we faced a 45-minute wait there, we made the most of it by settling in at the bar for pre-dinner drinks, where we shared our Loop stories, making the time fly by. When we finally sat down to eat, it was clear that the evening was worth the wait. Somehow, we visited like we were the oldest and best of friends, yet it was the common bond of our Great Loop adventures that brought us together. The camaraderie made it a memorable—and slightly extravagant—dining experience, leaving us with full bellies and warm hearts.
The next day we would leave Annapolis and soon our adventures on the Chesapeake would come to an end. Click on the photos below to view the images in slideshow mode. You can also watch our videos on the area including Farewell AICW! Hello Chesapeake and We learn to eat Maryland Blue Crab. Coming up next, we head to C & D canal.
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